Diagnose Your Problem First
Before trying random fixes, take 30 seconds to identify what's actually happening. This will save you time and help you find the right solution faster.
| What Happens | Most Likely Cause | DIY Fix? |
|---|---|---|
| Nothing at all - no lights, no sound | Power issue (outlet, breaker, unplugged) | Yes |
| Wall button works, remote doesn't | Remote batteries or programming | Yes |
| Lights blink but door won't close | Safety sensor problem | Yes |
| Motor hums but door doesn't move | Locked door, trolley disconnected, or jammed | Usually |
| Clicking sound, no movement | Stripped gears in motor | No - Call pro |
| Door opens but won't close | Sensor blocked or misaligned | Yes |
| Door reverses before fully closing | Force/travel limit settings or obstruction | Yes |
| Opens partially then stops | Broken springs or limit settings | Maybe |
10 Quick Fixes to Try (In Order)
Work through these fixes in order. Each step takes 1-3 minutes and together they solve about 90% of garage door opener problems.
Check the Power Source
Look at the motor unit - are any lights on? If not, check that it's plugged in (cords can work loose). Test the outlet with your phone charger or a lamp. Check your electrical panel for tripped breakers. Many garages have GFCI outlets that trip - press the "Reset" button on any outlet with Test/Reset buttons.
Test the Wall Button
Press the hardwired button mounted on your garage wall. If it works but your remote doesn't, the problem is with your remote or the opener's receiver - not the opener itself. This narrows down your troubleshooting significantly.
Replace Remote Batteries
This is the #1 cause of "my opener stopped working" calls. Even if you changed batteries recently, try fresh ones. Most remotes use CR2032 coin cells or A23 cylindrical batteries. Weak batteries cause intermittent problems before dying completely.
Check the Safety Sensors
Look at the two small sensors at the bottom of your door tracks (about 6 inches off the ground). One should have a solid amber light, the other a solid green light. If either is blinking or off, clean the lens with a soft cloth and gently adjust until both lights are solid.
Clear Any Obstructions
Walk the path of your door and sensor beam. A broom handle, shoe, or box can block sensors. Even spider webs on sensor lenses can cause problems. In winter, ice buildup on the floor can trigger the safety reverse.
Check for Lock Mode
Many openers have a "vacation lock" or "lock" mode that disables remotes. On LiftMaster/Chamberlain, hold the wall button for 3 seconds - if the light blinks, lock mode was on and is now off. On Genie, check for a lock button on the wall console.
Reconnect the Trolley
If someone pulled the red emergency release cord, the door is disconnected from the opener. Pull the cord toward the motor, then run the opener to reconnect. On some models, you need to manually push the door until the trolley clicks back into place.
Reset the Opener
Unplug the opener from the outlet (or flip the breaker) for 60 seconds. This resets the logic board and clears temporary faults. When you restore power, the opener will run through a brief self-test. Try operating the door again.
Reprogram Your Remote
Find the "Learn" or "Smart" button on your motor unit (usually under the light cover or on the back). Press it once - an LED will light up. Within 30 seconds, press and hold your remote button until the opener light blinks. Repeat for each remote.
Test Door Balance
Pull the emergency release cord and manually lift the door halfway. Let go - a balanced door stays in place. If it falls or shoots up, your springs need adjustment. An unbalanced door makes the opener work harder and can cause failures.
Important: If your door is extremely heavy when you try to lift it manually, DO NOT attempt to operate it with the opener. The springs may be broken, and forcing it can damage the opener or cause injury. Call a professional.
Solutions by Symptom
Still stuck? Here are detailed solutions for specific symptoms:
Door Opens But Won't Close
This is almost always a sensor issue. The opener thinks something is blocking the door's path. For detailed solutions, see our garage door won't close guide. Try these fixes:
- Clean both sensor lenses with a dry cloth
- Check that sensor lights are solid (not blinking)
- Look for objects blocking the invisible beam
- Ensure sensors are properly aligned (point at each other)
- Check sensor wires for damage or loose connections
Emergency Override: To close the door when sensors aren't working, hold the wall button continuously until the door fully closes. This bypasses the safety sensors - make sure the path is clear first!
Door Reverses Before Reaching Floor
The opener thinks it's hitting something. Common causes:
- Down force too sensitive: Adjust the force setting (usually a screw or dial on the motor) slightly higher
- Travel limit incorrect: The "down" limit is set too far, so the opener thinks the door is hitting the floor before it actually does
- Binding in tracks: Lubricate rollers and hinges with garage door spray lubricant
- Bent track: Look for dents or bends in the vertical tracks
Remote Works Sometimes But Not Always
Intermittent operation usually means:
- Weak batteries: Replace even if "they should still be good"
- LED light interference: Cheap LED bulbs emit frequencies that interfere with opener receivers. Use "garage door opener compatible" LED bulbs or switch back to incandescent
- Range problems: Check that the antenna wire hangs straight down from the motor unit
- Signal interference: New electronics in your home (routers, smart devices) can interfere
About 40% of the "opener not working" service calls I get are solved by replacing remote batteries. It's always worth trying fresh batteries first, even if you just changed them a few months ago.
- Michael Thompson, IDEA Certified Technician
Brand-Specific Tips
Different opener brands have unique quirks. Here are tips for the most common brands:
| Brand | Common Issue | Quick Fix |
|---|---|---|
| LiftMaster/Chamberlain | Light blinks 10 times | Sensor misalignment - adjust until both lights solid |
| LiftMaster/Chamberlain | myQ won't connect | Ensure WiFi is 2.4GHz, reset gateway |
| Genie | Remote range reduced | Replace intellicode remote batteries, check antenna |
| Genie | Safe-T-Beam errors | Green light should be solid on receiver |
| Craftsman | Door reverses on close | Adjust down force screw (small turns) |
| Wayne Dalton | Prodrive won't work | Check if trolley is engaged (listen for click) |
| Overhead Door | Legacy won't program | Hold SRT button during programming |
When to Call a Professional
Some problems require professional tools, parts, or expertise. Call a technician if you experience:
Clicking Without Movement
The motor tries to engage but can't move the door. Usually indicates stripped gears that need replacement.
Requires gear kit replacement: $150-$250Burning Smell From Motor
Indicates motor overheating, possibly due to worn bearings or running against a jammed door.
Stop using immediately - motor may need replacementDoor Very Heavy When Lifted
Springs are broken or worn. The opener cannot safely operate an unbalanced door.
Spring replacement required: $160-$400Logic Board Failure
If the opener doesn't respond to anything after a reset, the logic board may have failed.
Board replacement: $175-$300 or consider new openerOpener Over 15 Years Old
Older openers lack modern safety features and are more expensive to repair than replace.
New opener installation: $680+ (includes warranty)