Garage Door Won't Close? 12 Causes & Fixes (2025 Guide)

Safety sensors (photo-eyes) are located 4-6 inches above the floor on each side of the door. They create an invisible beam that, if broken, prevents the door from closing to avoid crushing objects or people. If your opener light is blinking, see our dedicated troubleshooting guide for detailed light code explanations.

How to Fix

1. Check for obvious obstructions (boxes, tools, spider webs) in the sensor path
2. Clean both sensor lenses with a soft cloth - dust and dirt are common culprits
3. Check sensor lights: sending sensor (usually amber) should be steady, receiving sensor (usually green) should be steady
4. If receiving sensor blinks, loosen its bracket and slowly adjust angle until light becomes steady
5. Check that wires aren't damaged, pinched, or disconnected
6. Direct sunlight can interfere with sensors - try adding a shade or tube around the lens

Beyond sensor obstructions, physical objects in the door's path trigger the safety reverse. Even small items like a shoe, garden hose, or ice buildup can prevent closing.

How to Fix

1. Walk the entire door path and remove any objects
2. Check the floor for items that may have rolled into the path
3. In winter, clear ice and snow from the bottom seal area
4. Inspect the door's bottom edge for damage or debris

The close limit switch tells the opener where the door should stop. If set too far, the door "bottoms out" against the floor and reverses thinking it hit something.

How to Fix

1. Locate the limit adjustment screws on your opener (usually labeled "Open" and "Close" or "Up" and "Down")
2. Turn the "Close" or "Down" screw in small increments (1/4 turn at a time)
3. Test the door after each adjustment
4. Stop when the door closes completely without reversing
5. Refer to your opener's manual for specific instructions

Sometimes the problem isn't the door at all - it's the control device. Battery issues, signal interference, or damaged buttons can prevent commands from reaching the opener.

How to Fix

1. Replace remote batteries - even "new" batteries can be dead
2. Test the wall button - if it works, problem is the remote
3. Check for LED bulbs near opener - some interfere with radio signals
4. Try reprogramming the remote to the opener
5. If wall button doesn't work either, check the button wiring connections at the opener

The emergency disconnect cord (usually red) allows manual operation during power outages. If pulled, the door disconnects from the opener's drive mechanism.

How to Fix

1. Pull the door down to the fully closed position
2. Pull the emergency release cord toward the opener (not down) to re-engage
3. Some openers require you to run the opener until the trolley catches
4. Test by pressing the wall button - door should now move with opener

Tracks can become bent from impact, loose from vibration, or misaligned over time. Even small deviations cause binding that prevents smooth operation.

How to Fix

1. Inspect tracks for dents, bends, or debris
2. Check that tracks are plumb (vertical) and level (horizontal sections)
3. Tighten loose mounting brackets
4. Minor bends can be straightened with pliers and a rubber mallet
5. For significant damage, call a professional - improper repair can cause door to fall

Torsion springs counterbalance the door's weight. When one breaks, the opener can't lift the full weight, and the door becomes dangerous to operate.

What to Do

1. Stop using the door immediately
2. Disconnect the opener to prevent damage to the motor
3. Do not attempt to open or close the door manually
4. Call a professional for same-day emergency repair

Cables work with springs to lift and lower the door safely. When they break or slip off the drum, the door becomes unbalanced and dangerous.

Rollers guide the door along the tracks. Worn rollers create friction that can stop the door or cause the opener to overwork and fail.

How to Fix

1. Inspect all rollers for wear, cracks, or wobbling
2. Try lubricating with silicone spray first
3. Non-bottom-bracket rollers can be replaced DIY by removing hinge and sliding out roller
4. Bottom bracket rollers are connected to springs - professional replacement required

Simple power problems are often overlooked. Tripped breakers, unplugged cords, or outlet issues can make it seem like a major problem.

How to Fix

1. Check that the opener is plugged in (cords can work loose)
2. Check the circuit breaker or fuse for the garage
3. Test the outlet with another device
4. If using a GFCI outlet, press the reset button
5. Check for a reset button on the opener itself

Opener gears, capacitors, and motors wear out over time. Gear failure is the most common internal problem, especially in older chain-drive units. For brand-specific troubleshooting, see our Chamberlain troubleshooting guide or LiftMaster troubleshooting guide.

Options

1. If opener is under 10 years old, gear kit replacement is cost-effective
2. If opener is older, consider full replacement for better features and reliability
3. Check warranty - many motors have lifetime warranties

Toronto winters are hard on garage doors. Cold affects lubricants, rubber seals, and metal components. For a complete guide to cold weather issues, see our garage door won't close in cold weather troubleshooting article.

How to Fix

1. If door is frozen to floor, pour warm water along the seal (never force it open)
2. Apply silicone-based lubricant rated for cold temperatures
3. Check that weatherstripping isn't hardened or cracked
4. Run the door through a few cycles to warm up components
5. Consider a heating solution if garage is unheated